There are several styles, and choosing the right one is half the battle when advising customers.
1. Umanori Hakama (“horse-riding” hakama)
The classic divided type that looks like extremely wide trousers.
- Has a split between the legs so you can actually ride a horse (or more realistically, walk and sit without flashing everyone).
- The standard choice for formal occasions, graduations, and weddings.
- Usually striped (sendai-hira or kento) in black/white, navy/white, or brown tones for adults; brighter stripes for younger men.
2. Andon Hakama (lantern hakama)
Undivided, tube-shaped, looks like a long skirt.
- Worn mainly by Shinto priests and in noh theater.
- Very few civilian men wear this style today unless they’re going for a dramatic artistic look.
3. Gyodo Hakama
Extremely long, trailing on the ground — used in mountain ascetic practices (yamabushi).
Not something you’ll sell many of in the shop!
4. Modern/Casual Hakama
Shorter length (knee to ankle), made of cotton or washable polyester, often in solid colors (black, navy, gray, olive).
Popular with younger customers who want to wear them with boots or even sneakers for photos or festivals.
Fabric notes:
- Formal hakama = silk or high-quality polyester with a stiff koshi-ita (back board) that creates the signature sharp silhouette.
- Martial-arts hakama = heavy cotton or tetron, dyed deep indigo or black, designed to make a satisfying “snap” sound when you move.