The hakama is perhaps the most instantly recognizable piece of traditional Japanese men's attire. More than just a garment, these pleated trousers or skirt-like coverings carry a profound sense of formality, history, and style. From the rigid discipline of the martial arts dojo to the joyous celebration of a graduation or wedding, choosing and wearing a hakama correctly is a subtle art.
If you are considering your first purchase—or simply want to understand the etiquette behind this iconic clothing—this guide breaks down everything you need to know: from selecting the right fabric for the occasion and navigating tricky sizing, to mastering the quick tie and appreciating the cultural weight of your investment.
1. Occasion first
Graduation → striped umanori in conservative colors
Wedding (groom or guest) → black or very dark gray sendai-hira
Martial art → whatever your dojo specifies (usually solid indigo or black)
Fashion → go wild with color and length
2. Sizing is not the same as Western pants
Hakama are measured by total length from the waist string to the hem, not inseam.
A 180 cm-tall man usually needs a #27–28 (around 100–105 cm long) so the hem just touches the floor when wearing tabi.
Always measure while the customer is wearing the kimono/underwear they’ll actually use.
3. The eternal question: “Do I really need to buy one?”
For most Japanese men, the answer is yes — at least once.
You’ll wear it for your own coming-of-age ceremony, your university graduation, and probably your wedding. After that, maybe your child’s shichi-go-san or another wedding.
Renting is common for one-time events, but many customers come back years later saying “I wish I had bought one back then.”
4. Quick wearing cheat sheet
- Tie the kimono first, then put on the hakama.
- Front straps: cross behind, bring forward, tie firmly above the obi.
- Back straps: pass under the front knot, bring up over the koshi-ita, tie a solid bow.
- Adjust the pleats so the center front pleat sits perfectly in the middle.
- The hem should barely touch the floor — if it drags, you’ll trip during the ceremony photos!
Final thought from a shop owner:
Every time a nervous 20-year-old comes in for his graduation hakama, or a groom picks out the exact shade his fiancée requested, I’m reminded that these garments aren’t museum pieces. They’re still being worn on the happiest, proudest days of people’s lives. That’s why, even in 2025, the hakama section of our shop is never quiet.